TECHNICAL CLIMBING ON THE MAIN PEAKS OF MT. KENYA
(Batian 5,169m and /or Nelion 5158m.)
Because of Mt. Kenya’s unique position on the equator, climbing seasons and route conditions vary with the sun’s position. For example, a climber interested in doing one of the best ice routes, which are on the south side of the mountain, should climb when the sun is in the north, between the months of June and December.
However, during the same period the east and north sides are in the best condition for rock climbing. Conversely, when the sun is in the south, the south side offers the best rock routes and north the better ice climbing conditions.
Recommended routes
December-March
Normal Route, Standard IV (rock: South West Ridge, Standard V (rock routes).
June-September
North Face, Standard IV (rock Route).
6 DAYS ROCK CLIMBING – Batian peak ( northface , standard route)
DAY 1
Morning sorting out equipments with the help of the guide. Depart the lodge before midday and drive to through equator , nanyuki town to sirimon gate (1 hrs).a leisurely and easy walk in through the rain forest to help acclimatization (3 hrs walk), overnight Judmaier’s Camp (3,300m) in the high altitude mountain tents.
DAY 2
An early start out of the sirimon valley and hike over mackinders valley ( one of the broadest on valley ) where you have spectacular view of the main peaks. The cook makes a cold lunch enroute. Proceed down mackinders valley to shiptons camp where we overnight just below the main peaks (4300m – walking time 6-7hrs)
DAY 3
Pre dawn ascent to the third highest peak, Pt. Lenana (4985m). En route up the north face to be on summit for the sunrise. Four hours of walking to the summit. Then descend back to shiptons camp. Afternoon hike up to kami camp for overnight just below batian peak.
Note ; ascending Pt. lenana helps to acclimatize before attempting the main peaks.
DAY 4
Early start to attempt pt. batian via northface, standard IV. The climbs takes 10hrs climb. And descend down to shiptons camp.
DAY 5
After breakfast traverse out from mackinders valley to teleki valley then down to met.station for overnight in mountain bandas ( 6 – 7 hrs walk).
DAY 6
Descend from met.station, hike down through mountain forest to parkgate for a transfer pickup to the lodge.
6 DAYS ROCK CLIMBING, Batian Via Nelion peak.( Normal route, Standard IV)
DAY 1
Morning spent sorting and organizing personal equipment for the trek.Be driven to the parkgate where we start a 3hrs walk through the equatorial rain forest rich of animal and birdlife, parked lunch enroute to the Met Station where we spend the night in the mountain log cabins, a good day for acclimatization for we will be sleeping at an altitude of 3,050m. A short hike is taken in the afternoon to gain and loose altitude.( 3 hrs)
DAY 2
Early start hike up through hagenia zone to the forest line where we start the moorland zone covered by tussock glass and heathers zone. hike over the Teleki valley where there is a spectacular view of the main peaks, lunch enroute. Walking time 5-6 hours. Arrrive at teleki lodge late afternoon and overnight(4,100m).
DAY 3
A pre dawn start is made to ensure a successful summit bid and in time for a clear view of majestic summit scenery after sunrise ( ascending pt. lenana helps people to acclimatize before climbing nelion and batian), then descend down to the Austrian hut (4750m) just below the the main peaks. In the afternoon sort out climbing equipments ready for an early start.
DAY 4
Early start attempt pt. nelion (rock climbing) through normal route standard IV, will take 4 – 5hrs to the top of nelion(5177). For those climbers not attempting batian will turn around and descend. For the climbers attempting Batian peak will overnight ( bivac) on top of nelion at Howell’s hut.
DAY 5
Climbers to traversen through Gates of mist to the to of Batian (5188m top of mt.kenya) then turn and descend via nelion down to Austrian hut. Proceed to teleki lodge for overnight in bandas.
DAY 6
After breakfast hike down through the moorland zone, heathers zone to mountain forest to met.station for a pickup transfer to the lodge for awell earned rest.
Note; Technical climbing in mount kenya needs a well trained rock climber. For any climber not confident enough we highly recommend you hire a rock climbing guide to lead the climb.
In case of accidents while climbing, we have rescue team managed by kenya wildlife services.
Equipments required.
• Helmet
• 02 Ropes :- 01 dry treated dynamic climbing rope.(10.5mm x 50m) and 01 sport rope (9mmx50m)
• Sitting harness.
• Repel Device.
• Locking carabineers:- D-shaped locking and non locking carabineers.
• Slings (several)
• Ascension ascenders( right and left).
• Daisy chain
• 01 Rack:- tri-cam,hexes,nuts, quick draw oval.
