Tel: +254 722 275678
E-Mail: info@alpineholidayskenya.com

 

Rock Climbing

Recommended Routes.

Rock climbing peaks- Batian peak- 5199m and Nelion peak -5188m.
Because of Mt. Kenya’s unique position on the equator, climbing seasons and route conditions vary with the sun’s position. For example, a climber interested in doing one of the best ice routes, which are on the south side of the mountain, should climb when the sun is in the north, between the months of June and December.
However, during the same period the east and north sides are in the best condition for rock climbing. Conversely, when the sun is in the south, the south side offers the best rock routes and north the better ice climbing conditions.
 
Recommended routes
December-March
Normal Route, Standard IV (rock: South West Ridge, Standard V (rock routes).
 

June-September
North Face, Standard IV (rock Route).

Note; technical climbing in Mount Kenya needs a well-trained rock climber. For any climber not confident enough we highly recommend you to hire a rock climbing guide to lead the climb. The hiring of the guide is extra – charges are Usd 600 per client payable directly to the guide before the start of the climb.
In case of accidents while climbing, we have rescue team managed by Kenya wildlife services.
 

6 Days Rock Climbing –Northface route.

Route; - Northface, Standard route, Grade IV, Very difficult.

Day 1.Nairobi – Sirimon gate- Judmaier camp.
Depart Nairobi at 0700hrs and be driven to Mt. Kenya region to arrive at Naromoru by 1000hrs where you start sorting personal equipment for the mountain trek. Then be driven to the Sirimon Park Gate where you sign and start a 3hrs hike through the equatorial forest to the camp for overnight (3,300m) Packed lunch is served on route. An easy trek in the afternoon to help acclimatization.  Overnight Judmaier Camp (3300m) in the high altitude mountain tents.
Camp; Judmaier camp 3,080m/ 10,000ft.
Accommodation facility; High altitude tents- camping.
Trekking time; 3 hours.
Distance; 9 km.
Rating; Medium.
Altitude gained; 400m.


Day 2. Judmaier camp – Shiptons camp.
After breakfast hike up through Sirimon Track to Likii North Valley then crossover into the Mackinders Valley, one of the broadest valleys on the mountain, with many giant groundsels. The camp is set at the head of the Mackinder's Valley, just below the main peaks of Batian and Nelion. Overnight at  Shiptons Camp in high altitude tents- Full board.

Camp; Shiptons camp 4,300m/ 14,200 ft.
Accommodation facility; High altitude tents- camping.
Trekking time; 6- 7 hours.
Distance; 13 km.
Rating; Medium.
Altitude gained; 300m.


Day 4. Shiptons camp – Pt.Lenana 4985m – Shiptons camp
A per-dawn start at 0400hrs is made to ensure a successful summit bid and in time for clear view of the majestic scenery after sunrise. With the help of the guide ascent to the third highest peak ( point lenana -4985 m, 4- 5 hr), at the peak on a clear day you can be able to see Uhuru peak of Mt. Kilimanjaro- a few minutes for celebration and photos.
Afternoon proceed to hike down back to Shiptons camp for breakfast and rest- The climb helps cleints to acclimatize before attempting the highest peak.
Afternoon meet with the Rock Climbing guide for briefing and sorting of the climbing equipment. Dinner and overnight at the camp.

Peak Summited; Point Lenana, 4985m/ 16355ft
Camp;     Shiptons camp 4,300m, 14,200ft.
Accommodation facility; High altitude tents- camping.
Trekking time; 8 hours
Distance; 8 km.
Rating; High.
Altitude gained; 700m.


Day 5. Rock climbing- attempt Pt. Batian.
Early start accompanied by the guide attempt Point Batian 5,188M via Northface, standard route, Grade IV, Very difficult.
The climb takes 10hrs – it all depends with experience of the climber, pace and weather. To be on top by midday- on a clear day you will enjoy great views from the top. After celebration and photo session start to descend down to Shiptons camp to arrive at the camp late afternoon for dinner and overnight.

Peak; Point Batian, 5188m/ 17,120 ft
Camp; Shitons camp 4300m/ 14,200 ft
Accommodation facility; Mountain huts.
Trekking time; 10 hours
Distance; 700 m
Rating; Very High.
Altitude gained; 750 m.

Day 6. Shiptons camp – Judmair camp.
After breakfast hike down through the moorland to Judmaeir camp where you will find vehicle waiting to transfer you back to Nairobi or to your next destination.

Camp; Naromoru – 1,970m/ 6,500ft.
Trekking time; 5 hours.
Distance; 12 km.
Rating; Medium.
END.

Some of the Rock Climbing equipment required;
•    Helmet.
•    02 Ropes :- 01 dry treated dynamic climbing rope.(10.5mm x 50m) and 01 sport rope (9mmx50m)
•    Sitting harness.
•    Repel Device.
•    Locking carabineers: - D-shaped locking and non locking carabineers.
•    Slings (several)
•    Ascension ascenders (right and left).
•    Daisy chain
•    01 Rack: - tri-cam, hexes, nuts, quick draw oval.

6 Days Rock Climbing -Normal route.

Route; - Batian Via Nelion peak.( Normal route, Standard IV, Very difficult)

Day 1. Nairobi - Naromoru gate – Met. Station.
Depart Nairobi at 0800hrs and drive to Mount Kenya region- 3 hours drive to Naromoru where you meet the guide for briefing and sorting of the equipments. Then proceed to Naromoru park-gate on Naromoru route where you start the trek. The guide set a leisurely pace for a relaxing trek up on the mountain. The trek helps you to acclimatize and enjoy seeing fascinating vegetation zones of an equatorial mountain and the associated rich animal and bird life. Packed Lunch is provided en-route. The trek takes 3 hrs to the Met station where we spend the night in the Mountain log cabins.
A good day for acclimatization for we will be sleeping at an altitude of 3,050m. A short hike is taken in the afternoon to gain and loose altitude.

Camp; Met. Station- 3,080m/ 10,000ft.
Accommodation facility; Mountain huts.
Trekking time; 3 hours.
Distance; 9 km.
Rating; Medium.
Altitude gained; 400m.

Day 2. Met. Station – Teleki Lodge.
After breakfast hike up past forest line to moorland zone covered by tussock glass and Heathers zone onto the Teleki valley to the crest of the ridge from which vantage point you have a splendid view of the  main peaks. Packed lunch is provided en-route. Proceed on for 2 hours to get to Teleki lodge for Dinner and overnight in hut.

Camp; Teleki lodge- 4,200m/ 14,200ft.
Accommodation facility; Mountain huts.
Trekking time; 6- 7 hours.
Distance; 11 km.
Rating; High.
Altitude gained; 1,200 m.

Day 3.  Teleki Lodge – Pt.Lenena, 4985m – Austrain hut.
A per-dawn start at 0400hrs is made to ensure a successful summit bid and in time for clear view of the majestic scenery after sunrise. With the help of the guide ascent to the third highest peak ( point lenana -4985 m, 4- 5 hr), at the peak on a clear day you can be able to see Uhuru peak of Mt. Kilimanjaro- a few minutes for celebration and photos then descend down to Austrian hut for breakfast and rest.
Afternoon meet with the rock climbing guide for sorting out climbing equipment and attempt Pt John to acclimatize.

Peak; Point Lenana, 4985m/ 16355ft
Camp; Austrain hut-  4,700m/ 15,500ft.
Accommodation facility; Mountain huts.
Trekking time; 4 hours.
Distance; 4 km.
Rating; High.
Altitude gained; 700m.

Day 4. Rock Climbing – Attempt Pt. Nelion.
Early start attempt Pt. Nelion through Normal route standard IV, will take 6 – 7hrs to the top of Nelion(5177). The timing depend with clients’ climbing experience and the pace. If the climbers are slow they will overnight on top of Pt. Nelion at Howell’s hut.

Peak; Point Nelion, 5177m/ 17,084 ft
Camp; Howels Hut 5,177m/ 17,084ft.
Accommodation facility; Mountain huts.
Climbing time; 5- 6 hours
Distance; 700m.
Rating; Very High.
Altitude gained; 200m.

 
Day 5. Rock Climbing- Traverse to Pt. Batian.
Climbers to traverse through Gates of mist to the highest point- Batian, 5188m– the highest peak on Mt. Kenya. Enjoy the great views from the top, summit celebration and photo session.
Then start to descend via nelion down to Austrian hut to arrive at the camp late afternoon. Proceed down to Teleki lodge for overnight in bandas.

Peak; Point Batian, 5188m/ 17,120 ft
Camp; Teleki lodge 4300m/ 14,200 ft
Accommodation facility; Mountain huts.
Trekking time; 7 - 8 hours
Distance; 500.
Rating; Very High.
Altitude gained; 10 m.

Day 6. Teleki Lodge – Met. Station – Naromoru.
After breakfast depart the camp and hike down through the moorland on Teleki Valley to Met. Station where you find vehicle waiting and be transferred to Naromoru River lodge or proceed to your next destination.
Camp; Naromoru – 1,970m/ 6,500ft.
Trekking time; 5 hours.
Distance; 11 km.
Rating; Medium.
END
 
Some of the Rock Climbing equipment required;
•    Helmet.
•    02 Ropes :- 01 dry treated dynamic climbing rope.(10.5mm x 50m) and 01 sport rope (9mmx50m)
•    Sitting harness.
•    Repel Device.
•    Locking carabineers: - D-shaped locking and non locking carabineers.
•    Slings (several)
•    Ascension ascenders (right and left).
•    Daisy chain
•    01 Rack: - tri-cam, hexes, nuts, quick draw oval.